Top pick for most buyers: the small Baignoire in yellow gold on a leather strap with a quartz movement. That version wins because the small oval is the hardest case shape to fake well and the easiest to check by eye, and because a plain gold case leaves nowhere for a weak dial to hide. I ranked everything below on four criteria: case geometry and curve, crystal and bezel fit, dial and hand execution, and how clearly the seller describes the movement inside.
What a 2020 Baignoire is, and why the shape is the whole point
Baignoire means bathtub in French, and the name describes the case: an elongated oval with soft, continuous sides rather than flat flanks and hard corners. Cartier has kept that silhouette in the catalog since the early 1900s, and the versions sold around 2020 stayed close to it. The crown sits at 3 o'clock and carries a blue cabochon. The crystal domes over the dial instead of sitting flush.
On a replica, that curvature is the entire test. A pinched waist, a flat crystal, or a case that looks like a squashed circle reads as wrong from across a room, long before anyone inspects the printing.
The criteria I ranked on
- Case geometry: oval proportions, side profile, lug placement, and whether the curve is continuous.
- Crystal and bezel: dome height, edge fit, and any gap where the glass meets the case.
- Dial and hands: Roman numeral weight, track printing, sword hand shape, blue tone.
- Cabochon: color, polish, and how it is set into the crown.
- Movement: quartz or mechanical, and whether the seller states it without hedging.
- Strap or bracelet: leather grain and stitching, or link fit on metal versions.
Top pick: small yellow gold Baignoire, quartz, leather strap
This is the build to choose if you want one Baignoire and you want it to look right on a normal wrist.
- Pros: the small oval is forgiving of small case errors; a leather strap hides lug and end-link problems; gold plating tone is easy to compare against photos; quartz keeps the case thin, which is how the shape is meant to sit.
- Cons: plating wear shows on the caseback and crown first; quartz removes the option of a display back; a cheap strap makes the whole watch look cheap.
Best for: a first Baignoire replica, dress wear, and anyone who wants a watch that disappears under a cuff.
Option 2: Baignoire Allongée, the stretched oval
The Allongée stretches the oval along the wrist, which makes it the most distinctive version and the most demanding to copy.
- Pros: strong presence on a larger wrist; long, elegant profile; stands apart from the round watches almost everyone else wears.
- Cons: a stretch error is obvious because the proportions are the point; harder to fit under a tight cuff; fewer sellers carry it, so comparison shopping is limited.
Best for: buyers with a wrist of about 6.5 inches or more, or anyone who already owns a standard oval and wants a second look.
Option 3: Steel and two-tone Baignoire
Steel versions trade warmth for durability and often come on a bracelet rather than a strap.
- Pros: no plating to wear through on the case; bracelet versions suit daily wear; steel reads as understated next to gold.
- Cons: bracelet links are where replica quality shows fastest, with loose fit and sharp edges; a two-tone build adds a second finish to match; the cabochon often looks too bright next to steel.
Best for: daily wear and buyers who do not want to think about plating.
Option 4: Diamond bezel Baignoire
These use small stones set around the bezel, and they are the highest risk purchase in the group.
- Pros: dramatic look; the sparkle distracts from small dial flaws; works as an evening piece.
- Cons: stone setting is expensive to do well and cheap to fake; uneven spacing or cloudy stones are common; harder to resell or trade.
Best for: buyers who can inspect the setting in person or review close-up photos before paying.
Checks on the case, crystal, and cabochon
- Run a finger along the case side. It should feel like one continuous curve, with no ridge where the mid-case meets the bezel.
- Check the crystal from the side. It should rise above the bezel and meet the case with an even gap all the way around.
- Look at the cabochon under bright light. It should sit in a clean metal seat, not glue.
- Ask the seller for case dimensions and compare them to published Cartier figures for the reference you are buying.
Checks on the dial and hands
Roman numerals should have consistent stroke width, and the minute track should be printed, not painted in a thick smear. The hands are sword shaped with a clean polish line down the center. On the dial, the word placement and font weight matter more than any tiny engraving on the back. Look at the dial at arm's length first, then up close, and trust the arm's length read.
Movement, strap, and sizing
Small dress Baignoires run on quartz, and the case stays thin because of it. If a seller claims a mechanical movement in a very thin oval case, ask for a photo of the back or the movement itself. For straps, alligator grain leather in a dark color suits the gold case. Measure your wrist before you buy, since the oval shape sits differently from a round watch and a strap cut for a round case can leave a gap at the lugs.
Red flags
- Photos that are all straight-on and none from the side, where case curve shows.
- No answer on movement type, or an answer that changes between messages.
- Sapphire claims with no scratch test or edge photo.
- Diamond bezels priced like plain bezels.
One note worth stating: a replica is not the genuine watch, and trafficking in counterfeit trademarked goods is illegal in the United States, even though personal-use buying sits in a different position. Know your local rules before you order.
Bottom line
Buy the small yellow gold oval on a leather strap if you want one safe choice. Move to the Allongée if your wrist can carry it, steel if you wear it daily, and diamonds only if you can see the setting yourself first.