The Drive de Cartier 38588 is a cushion shaped steel watch with a guilloché dial, Roman numerals, and blued steel sword hands. A replica of it stands or falls on four things: case proportions, dial printing, hand finish, and movement. Get those four right and the watch reads as correct on the wrist. Miss any one of them and the copy looks wrong from across a table.
What Reference 38588 Covers
The 38588 case number maps to the steel Drive de Cartier automatic line. The case measures about 40 mm across the cushion, about 41 mm from lug tip to lug tip, and about 11.5 mm thick. The genuine watch runs Cartier's in house 1904 PS MC automatic with a 48 hour power reserve. Replica makers copy the outside first and the movement last, so the gap between a good copy and a weak one shows up in the caseback engraving, the crown, and the winding feel.
Before You Inspect
- A digital caliper
- A 10x loupe
- A timegrapher or a phone timing app
- Bright, even light and a soft cloth
Inspection Steps
- Measure the case width across the widest point of the cushion and compare it to 40 mm.
- Measure the case height from lug tip to lug tip and compare it to 41 mm.
- Measure thickness at the caseback and compare it to 11.5 mm.
- Read the caseback engraving with the loupe and check the depth and spacing of each letter and number.
- Turn the crown between your fingers and confirm the sapphire cabochon sits flush and does not rock.
- Tilt the dial toward a light source and study the guilloché pattern for even spacing across the full surface.
- Check the printed Roman numerals for sharp edges and consistent stroke width.
- Compare the hour and minute hands against the minute track for correct reach.
- Push the crown in and out to confirm the seconds hand stops when you set the time.
- Pull the crown to the first position and cycle the date if the watch has a date window.
- Set the watch on a timegrapher and read the rate, amplitude, and beat error.
- Flex the bracelet or strap at the lugs and listen for rattle or play.
Dial Details That Get Missed
Most buyer complaints about the 38588 copy start at the dial. The guilloché should be cut, not stamped, so the lines catch light in both directions. Roman numerals on cheap copies look painted on rather than applied or printed with a raised edge. The Cartier signature belongs in the lower half of the dial with even letter spacing. Check the date window position too: an off center or oversize window is the fastest tell on this reference.
Movement and Winding Feel
Wind the crown 30 turns and pay attention to the resistance. A decent automatic movement feels smooth and consistent through the whole wind, while a low grade movement grinds or feels loose near the end. Amplitude above 250 degrees and a beat error under 0.6 ms are reasonable targets for a replica at this price point. Note the power reserve by letting the watch sit and checking when it stops.
After the Sale
Keep the watch away from water unless the seller has pressure tested the gaskets. Store it on a winder or wind it twice a week to keep the lubricants moving. Have a local watchmaker check the movement every two years, and keep the original strap and any spare links in case you resell.